They are the background of every room; they set the tone for your house; they are the first way that you begin creating your environment—they are your walls. With recent technological advances, fashioning a new mood has never been easier—or more fun. From paint to wallpaper to (yes) leather, today’s wall coverings are only limited by your imagination.Here is a list of products available to create your dream interior. (Do to the unlimited possibilities offered by wallpaper and paint we’ve given them their own space.)

Gypsum wallboard (aka plasterboard or drywall) is the most widely used wall covering today because of its flexibility. You can paint it or use it as a base for wallpaper, ceramic tie, paneling and most textured finishes. It is made from crushed gypsum sheathed in paper (smooth on the faced side and natural on the backside) and gives the appearance of plaster without the need for lath backer strips and it’s easy to install because it’s sold in panels. Regular gypsum wallboard (averages around 15 cents per square foot) is fire resistant, but you might want to a pay a few extra pennies (literally) to get fireproof (averages around 20 cents per square foot) and/or waterproof wallboard. (averages around 30 cents per square foot).

Plank Paneling represents natural beauty in solid pine and cedar planks. And, it is as versatile as it is beautiful. Plank paneling can be installed vertically, horizontally, diagonally or in a herringbone pattern for a more dramatic effect. It can be installed on walls, accent walls, wainscot and even ceilings. Plank paneling is usually priced by the square foot and varies depending on the manufacturer, but expect to pay between $3-$5 per square foot.

Sheet Paneling is available in a vast array of styles, colors and patterns. You can get it with or without grooves, real wood veneer or photo finish, light or dark - the choices are almost limitless. Generally sold in sheets of 4’ x 8’, this plywood-like product mimics the look of plank paneling, but at a lower cost.

Tile Board is a 4’ x 8’ sheet wall covering very similar to sheet paneling, except that it’s made from hardboard instead of plywood, which makes it a great choice in high-moisture areas like the bathroom or laundry room. Tile board is available in solid colors, as well as a wide variety of stamped faces that mimic the look of ceramic tile.

Wainscoting is a perfect way to give your room some character. Not only is wainscoting popular in the dining room (generally installed a third of the way up the wall and capped by a chair rail), but homeowners are installing it on stairways, in the study, on a kitchen island or surrounding a breakfast nook - the possibilities are endless.Traditional wainscoting is made of solid wood and uses a system of vertical and horizontal wood members that surround raised or flat wood panels of various styles and sizes. This older system is usually found in older homes because only a seasoned carpenter could properly install it.

Thanks to the growing popularity in wainscoting, manufacturers have created a new and relatively easy raised wainscoting system. Modern wainscoting is made up of thin veneers, applied to a dense core of either engineered wood or a unique wheat board core that recycles wheat straw. You can get these finished in cherry, oak and maple, as well as in a grade that can be painted. Another benefit to this modern method of making wainscoting is that it’s a very stable product that won’t contract and expand under humidity (a drawback to traditional wainscoting). Other modern systems blend solid wood and plywood raised panels covered with hardwood veneers. This allows for more species of wood like walnut, cherry, poplar, oak.

If you have your heart set on using solid wood, you might want to flip through the yellow pages and find a woodworking mill in your area that will customize a wainscoting system for you.

Ceramic Wall Tile isn’t just for your bathroom or backsplash anymore. There’s a lot more to ceramic and porcelain tiles than glazed and unglazed, now that homeowners are looking to enhance a room by adding a decorative tile section to its walls. New surfaces now range from deep texturing and high-definition relief tiles to hand-painted designs and pieces with a rugged, aged appearance. There are also many new shapes available so you can create a unique, mural-like look. It’s very difficult to give an accurate price range for tile, because there are so many different variables - but on an average tile, tiles run from $2 to $75 per tile (remember that’s not installed.)

Paint, Paint, Paint

Since decorating with color is always an adventure, it wouldn’t hurt to let the pros help you brush up on the latest ways to pick a palette you’ll love. Don’t see what you like than have a color customized, because virtually all paint retailers will customize a color for you. They will match any color you bring to them, such as a shade on an area rug, a favorite pillow, a paint chip from an expensive designer brand—there’s no saying no to mixing and making your dream colors.According to the American Society for Interior Design (ASID) homeowners are going for comfort shades like red - which is very popular for the dining room - and serene - like soft blues and lilacs. Once you pick a shade for each room you can begin to create an environment that truly represents your personality and tastes. Because color is known to have psychological effects when used in rooms, you’ll want to choose your colors carefully. The “warm” shades on the color wheel, including red, orange, and yellow, will make a room energetic and welcoming, and stimulate the appetite; the “cool” colors, such as blues and greens, are conducive to relaxation and sleep. This may be why red, for example, is so popular in dining rooms and blue finds its way into many bedrooms. Consciously or unconsciously, we tend to gravitate to colors appropriate for our emotional needs in our rooms.

While you’re getting colorful, don’t overlook the neutrals—browns, tans, grays, whites, and blacks—because they are vital colors that help balance the space in you home.

White, of course, is a perennial favorite on walls, and comes in hundreds of variations that are really just very pale tints of every shade. White breaks down into warm, creamy varieties—culled from tints of warm colors—and cool, crisp varieties—culled from tints of the cools.

No matter what color you think you want, be sure to test the color in the room (at least a foot) you plan on using it in, because every color looks different depending on the lighting conditions. Remember that paint is one of the easiest and most affordable ways to change your environment.

Faux Finishes

Faux (French for false) finishing techniques have been used to distress, age, and transform surfaces and objects and to simulate materials such as stone, marble, wood and even leather. With a couple cans of paint, you’ll find that faux finishes are a surefire way to give the rooms of your home the views and textures you want. Faux finishes can be tricky, so that’s why you should work closely with the artist and even request a sample board so there are no surprises. Prices for faux finishes vary, depending on the size of a room, the labor and detail involved, but expect the price tag to reach the thousands. If you have an artistic touch, you can purchase all the faux finishing products you need at most high scale paint stores, such as brushes, finishing tools, cheesecloth, stencils, trowels and wood graining tools. Gone are the old techniques of using a sponge and rag rolling.There are many advantages to choosing a faux finish, the main one being a completely unique and custom look. Every finish is different, which means that only you will have the finish you’ve chosen. Durability is definitely another great advantage because artists paint on top of an eggshell base coat and use washable paints, clean-ups are simple.

Really Know Your Colors

Choosing interior colors can be a fun and rewarding experience if you know the basics. Next time you spread out your color palettes, think about some basic color codes.

• Color affects our mood and emotions.
• Colors are broadly divided into two categories - warm and cool.
• Warm colors (red, orange and yellow) make us feel warm in a psychological way.
• Cool colors (blue, green and purple) convey peace and relaxation.
• Understanding the psychological meaning of colors will help you match each room’s colors to your personal taste and the room’s purpose.
• Color can change the perceived size of a room. To make a room seem larger use a light color scheme.
• When selecting a new color scheme, bring home a variety of samples to view them in context. Tape a color chip to your surface and check it out at different times and in different weather, because changes in light can give the same color many different looks.

Types of WallpaperWallpaper is a popular alternative to painting a room because of its wide variety of patterns, colors and finishes. It can be dramatic… whimsical… comforting… stimulating… formal… casual. With tens of thousands of patterns on the marketplace, there is perhaps no other product that allows you to show off your personality. So, whether you want something traditional, transitional, contemporary or just plain “off the wall,” try putting wallpaper on the wall.

There are 10 basic types of wallpaper from which to choose:

1. Printed wallpaper is the general category of manufactured wallpaper with printed patterns.
2. Unbacked fabric is one of the most difficult styles because you have to work carefully to smooth out the fabric as you apply it to the wall.
3. Relief has a raised texture that you can feel.
4. Solid vinyl is the most durable wall covering and because it’s waterproof it’s ideal for very humid areas.
5. Vinyl coated is the most common type of wallpaper, made of paper but with a protective coat of vinyl that makes it ideal (and scrubbable) for kitchens, bathrooms or wherever kids or pets might brush against a wall. Vinyl coated wallpaper is usually strippable, which makes it easy to pull off a wall and re-paper with a new pattern.
6. Flocked is the type of wallpaper (usually considered “old fashioned”) which includes a raised felt pattern that contrasts with the background color.
7. Foil (known best by the brand name “Mylar”) can be difficult to work with because it shows imperfections in the wall surface and because it wrinkles easily.
8. Cork-faced wallpapers are thicker because they have a surface of cork. They give a room a cozy, dark and woodsy effect.
9. Grass cloth/burlap wall coverings are exotic, but shouldn’t be used in high-traffic areas or where there’s high humidity, because they can stain.
10. Paper-backed fabric shows the high-quality look of a fabric wall covering but can be installed with the ease of a vinyl-coated paper.

Helpful tips: You might consider pasting a liner over your wall before applying the wall covering of your choice. The liner will hide many imperfections in the wall and make it much easier to strip later on. If you choose a wallpaper pattern that repeats, you’ll have to order more than you would for a random pattern, a vertical pattern (like stripes) or a solid color because you’ll have to shift each strip of the wallpaper to match up the patterns at the edges, which makes for considerable waste.Wallpaper is back in a big way
Once out of favor, wallpaper is now back in vogue. The top trends include murals and textured wall coverings. Whether it be a street scene from Venice, a baseball field or a children’s storybook fantasy, murals are a popular choice in customizing a room. Just as the possibilities are endless, so is the price range. Almost anything that can be glued can be made into a wall covering - cloth, sand or glass. Wallpaper, on an average, may cost between $20 to $30 per roll, but specialty wall coverings can cost more than $200 a yard.Don’t Forget to Look Up

Ceilings aren’t usually the first thing that comes to mind when you think of your home’s décor, in fact, ceilings are one of the most overlooked areas in the home. People don’t realize the multitude of design and surface options available to them, so they settle for a safe, texture less, white ceiling - that screams - boring!

You can go for a drop ceiling, which is both attractive and easy to install. Drop ceiling panels (are available in 2’x2’ and 4’ x 4’ panels) rest in a grid system suspended from the ceiling joists, which makes it easy to level any ceiling and easy access to pipes and wiring. For a sleeker look than drop ceilings you can have tiles and planks mounted directly to the ceiling. This allows for more head room and more design options.

Gypsum wallboard is one of the most common ceiling coverings because its smooth surface is suitable for painting or as a base for popcorn ceiling and most other textured finishes. If you want to create the effect of plaster or stucco than you’ll want to spray on a thick coating of popcorn ceiling. Another way to achieve a popcorn, stucco or sand texture is to apply textured paint to the ceiling, which is a thick form of paint, infused with particles to give a three dimensional look. Textured paints are available in a wide range of colors, which can either be mixed into the paint or you can paint the ceiling after it dries. Plank paneling is also another way to achieve a unique, rustic look.

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No workshop or tool box is complete without at least one dependable and powerful cordless drill/driver. Skil’s 2887-05, 3/8-inch keyless chuck drill/driver has a two-speed gear box that allows the user to shift from high speed drilling to high torque for driving screws or bolts. The gear change lever is located on top of the tool housing above the two-finger variable speed trigger. The forward/reverse switch on this drill is located just above the trigger so that you can switch direction without changing your grip, and there is a forward/reverse indicator light on top of the housing. There is a built-in bit storage compartment on top of the housing. Especially handy is the built-in bit index No more guessing at which bit is needed for which screw. Simply place a screw in the index and you’ll find the bit size you will need. The 2887-05 also comes with a removable side handle for added two-fisted leverage when drilling or driving on high torque. The drill/driver is powered by an 18-volt Ni-Cad battery which gives the user superior power and extended battery life. The battery slides easily onto the bottom of the tool giving the drill/driver optimum balance. Included with the 2587-05 is an extra battery, a one-hour charger and carrying case.  Skil’s 3/8-inch drill/driver sports a high performance motor that delivers 300 inch-pounds of torque at variable speeds of 0-400/1,250 rpm. A slide on battery pack ensures easy power change, and a power gauge indicator shows how much energy remains. An on-tool bit index means handy bit storage and quick access. The drill also Features a 3/8-inch single sleeve chuck, and a 25-position clutch to match the tool speed to almost any application.

Reviews

Kizar, (Yucaipa, CA)
I have been using this for about six months and have almost retired my 110v drill. With two batteries, I never get a break between jobs and this drill has power to spare. I have been putting up a wooden fence on top of a concrete block wall and this thing outperforms my expensive 110v B&D. After only three 3/8″ x 2 1/4″ deep holes in the concrete, the AC drill was getting hot. The Skil worked right through without a complaint. The Bosch masonry bit isn’t bad either. Additionally, I was drilling 1/2″ holes in redwood plate and 1/4″ holes in eighth inch metal strap as part of the masonry drilling. When drilling the metal and the bit first pokes through, the drill almost torques out of your hand. I did three battery changes for a day’s work. The batteries charge quickly but, as a hint, fully drain the battery before recharging and let it cool off before putting in the charger. This applies to all DC tool batteries. The on-board bit carrier isn’t much of a feature but its there if you need it. The drill is lighter than most DC tools costing much more, is well balanced and, at the highest torque setting will drive 3 1/2″ screws into studs without maxing the clutch.

Review #2
Craig (San Jose, CA)
I bought the Skill 2887-03 as part of a combo set including the drill/driver, circular saw, reciprocating saw and jigsaw. Needless to say, I’ve been extremely pleased.

I put hardwood flooring on three floors (2000+ square feet) and used the set extensively. From cutting plywood for the subfloor and underlayment with the circular saw to making curved cuts in the hardwood with the jigsaw. The drill/driver was used to screw in over a thousand screws to secure the underlayment, drill numerous holes, stir paint, mix mortar for the tile, etc. And with two batteries, you’ll be able to have one charging always ready to go. The only corded tools I used for this project were my compound miter and jamb saw. Everything else was done with the cordless Skil combo set.

I was so pleased with the tools, I bought two more sets, one for myself and one for my dad for father’s day.

Highly recommended.

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Product Description We’ve come a long way from sweat and a screwdriver. A hundred years ago, builders would never have envisioned a tool as powerful and efficient as this one. Heck, even 20 years ago. Science has ushered battery technology along, and the LXT Lithium-Ion system that powers this impact driver has a ton of advantages over standard NiMH or NiCad batteries. The Lithium-Ion technology means 1,400 battery life cycles, longer run time, lighter weight, a great reduction in the self-discharge rate and built-in shock-absorbing features to protect your battery. But perhaps the coolest innovation is what Makita calls its 45-minute Optimum Charger. It actually talks to the batteries it charges throughout the cycle, using a built-in memory chip in the battery and, believe it or not, a CPU chip in the charger itself, which analyzes the data stored in the battery chip to decide on the best charging method at that time. The hammer drill/ driver itself is fairly compact and lightweight, yet it’s packing a powerful 560 in./lbs. of torque. It’s got a super speed range of 0 to 300 rpm in low gear, 0 to 600 in mid-range and 0 to 1,700 rpm in top gear. But look at the numbers in hammer mode: up to 4,500 blows per minute in low gear, to 9,000 in mid-range and an astounding 0 to 25,500 in third gear. Wow. Sometimes, you may encounter a little resistance if you’re switching directly from low gear to high; if that happens, running the tool in mid-gear for a couple seconds completely alleviates any snag. Switching from drill to drive mode is done with a simple push of the Shift-Lock™ switch. We really like the integrated worklight, too: It illuminates as soon as you pull the trigger, and it stays on for 10 seconds or so after you release the trigger, too – a handy little feature. Makita’s always made ergonomically positive tools that feel good in your hand and take the strain off your body, and this one’s no exception. The slightly curved grip is so comfortable, and the auxiliary handle gives you a super-secure hold on this powerful tool. It’s an absolute pleasure to use and would be a great choice for a contractor, woodworker or exacting DIY-er. –Kris Jensen-Van Heste LXT Lithium-Ion battery and optimum charging system produces 280% total lifetime work with 2x more cycles. Compact design at only 9 7/8in. length and weighs only 4.9 lbs. for less operator fatigue. Cordless: Yes, Volts: 18, Rated RPM: 0 - 1,700, Variable Speed: Yes, Torque (in./lbs.): 560, Hammering Modes: Hammering ONly, Hammering with Rotation, Chuck Size (in.): 1/2, Tool Length (in.): 9 7/8, Tool Weight (lbs.): 4.9, Battery Included: (2) 18V LXT Lithium, Charger Included: Yes, 45 Minute, Case Included: Yes

Reviews

StevieQ  Castro Valley, CA United States

This is merely a first impression and as I use more of this tool, I will update my comments. I am not a pro contractor, but only a weekend handyman warrior type who appreciates good tools. I opted to buy Makita instead of the Milwaukee V28 entirely because of Makita’s lighter weight. To me ergonomics means almost as much as tool power. Also I’ve never had any complaints or durability issues with any of my Makita tools and so felt comfortable buying Makita again.

I bought this drill with Makita’s free impact driver offer when the lithium line was first introduced. The case for the drill can accommodate Makita’s lithium impact driver side by side with the drill. The same is not true with the smaller impact driver case. At the time I ordered mine, they cost roughtly same, $329 for the drill and $319 for the impact driver. I think the price differential has since increased with the impact driver now only at $279. With the free tool offer and the $75 off promo offer from Amazon at the time, I paid only around $254 for both tools.

Onward to the tool itself. I will structure this review by comparing the Makita drill with my Bosch 18V Brute Tough hammerdrill, model 13618, that I’ve been using the last couple of years. This Makita 18 lithium hammerdrill is definitely much lighter than the Bosch 18V hammerdrill. Whether the Makita can survive a 2-story drop on concrete as can the Bosch Brute Tough is another matter. The Makita has three speed ranges. The slowest speed range (0-300 rpm) is useful on large spade bits, metal drilling, or hole saws, etc where extra control and extra torque are needed. I tested my Bosch side by side against the Makita using a 3″ hole saw on redwood. The Bosch’s low range is 0-600 rpm. In the 0-600 rpm range both the Bosch and the Makita were about equal in performance. At 300 rpm, the Makita did not show any advantage compared to drilling at 600 rpm with this particular test. As for torque, the Makita has 560 ft-lbs; the Bosch has 475 ft-lbs. The supposed extra power of the Makita did not manifest itself during this 3″ hole saw test. Perhaps other more demanding tests, such as drilling large holes in metal, might bring out the advantage.

One way I judge a drill driver is how gentle it is in driving delicate screws. Unfortunately, in screw driving mode, this drill has so much torque even at the lowest setting that it will easily strip delicate screws long before the clutch kicks in. I have a feeling this problem is common among the powerful 18v drills.

The auxilliary handle on the Makita works really well, but the metal band mars the finish on the drill body. It kind of hurts to see the drill scratched up the very first day by the aux. handle. It does grip tightly and stays put, unlike the lousy one on the Bosch.

I like the Bosch chuck much better because the carbide teeth on the Bosch’s jaws have a better bite and less chance of slipping than the steel teeth on Makita’s Jacobs chuck. The Makita Jacobs chuck also has a tendency to unwind and self-loosen its grip on a bit during heavy drilling, something that has never happened on my Bosch drill.

A major shortcoming with the Makita’s Jacobs chuck is the large amount of runout it has. Runout is a measure of eccentricity. When I have time I will measure the runout precisely using a dial indicator, but for now I will state that the Makita’s Jacobs chuck on this model has roughly twice the runout as that found on my Bosch’s chuck. The effect of this large runout is a very pronouced gyration of the drill body when drilling at low to medium speeds, such as when drilling metal or drilling with a hole saw or spade bit. The large gyration is a safety hazard as it can cause the operator to lose balance while standing high on a ladder, for example. It can sometimes be corrected by rechucking the bit after rotating the bit 90 to 180 degrees relative to the chuck. Sometimes this fix works, but sometimes not. I checked this runout on another brand-new Makita lithium hammerdrill and the result was identical. This is a troubling.

The slider switch that lets me instantly switch between drill or driver or hammerdrill mode on the Makita is a plus, but in my opinion is not a big deal. I guess I’ve gotten too used to turning the clutch/mode setting ring on these cordless drills by now.

The Makita has a built-in LED light. Makita placed the fixed-angle light just above the trigger switch as a one-size-fits-all approach to accommodate all lengths of bits. The drawback is the placement entirely favors long bits at the expense of short and medium length bits because short bits will be hit by a large dark shadow cast by the big chuck. For driving screws and drilling with a short bit, the exact point where you want light is the exact point where the large dark shadow falls! The ideal LED light should be placed lower near where the battery is and have an adjustable angle to accommodate different length bits.

One thing no lithium-ion power tool maker would like the potential customer to know is that rechargeable lithium-ion batteries permanently lose capacity over time as a function of storage temperature and the state-of-charge. For example at room temperature(25 degrees C), a fully charged (100%) Li-on battery permanantely loses 20% of its rechargeable capacity in just one year. At higher temperatures, the loss is even greater. Please don’t misinterpret the above as to mean that you have to leave your tool and battery unused for a whole year for it to suffer from capacity loss. The capacity loss occurs at different rates at the different temperatures and states-of-charge but it’s all cumulative, and the deteriotion occurs even when the tool is constantly being used, as well as during short-term storage, and not just during long-term storage. If you have a spare Li-on battery that you don’t constantly use, the best way to store it is at a 40% charge. At 40% charge at 25 deg. Celsius, it loses only 4% capacity after one year. At 40% at 40 deg Celsius, it loses 15%. Heat is detrimental, even at a mere 40-degree Celsius. Yes, I said a “mere” 40-degrees, which is “merely” 104 degrees Fahrenheit. Most pros WILL have frequent, perhaps daily, occasions to leave their tools in the trunk or cabin of their truck, where it will easily exceed 104 deg. Fahrenheit in a hurry. Makita is giving these lithium batteries only a 1-year warranty for very good reasons. (Note: The above comments about capacity loss apply only to rechargeable lithium-ion batteries with a manganese oxide cathode. This applies to Milwaukee’s V28 line, and I have every reason to think it applies to Makita’s current Li-on and Bosch’s upcoming Li-on batteries as well. I am not sure whether it applies to DeWalt’s new lithium batteries which use an aluminum anode coated with nano-particles). The above comments on rechargeable Li-on batteries I learned from reading technical postings and articles on the WEB.

Overall the biggest advantage of the Makita lithium over the Bosch NiCD is really just the lighter weight, and also perhaps the 25% longer battery life (i.e. 3 Ah vs. 2.4 Ah) and a much flatter discharge curve than those of NiCD and NiMH. The Makita is lighter, noticeably lighter when you first pick up the tool, but in actual use when comparing it to the Bosch, the Bosch’s greater weight seemed to disappear over time. The Makita feels better in the hand. If you are already happy with your other 18V NiCD or NiMH drill, switching to lithium likely won’t give you much better satisfaction. This tool and the lithium technology is a slight improvement over the 18v NiCD or NIMH versions, but it’s not a quantum leap in improvement overall, in my humble opinion.

I previously gave this drill 5 stars, but now with the large runout that I noticed, I am more inclined to give it 4 to 4.5 stars instead, but Amazon’s software doesn’t permit me to update the stars rating.

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Product Description Look past the radically cool design of Hitachi’s new DS18DL Lithium-Ion Drill/Driver — which is admittedly hard to do — and you’ll find one of the very toughest, best- engineered cordless drills on the market. This compact, pro-duty tool is powered by a high- tech 18-volt lithium-ion battery that produces an impressive 560 in./lbs. of torque for drilling large-diameter holes and driving long screws through the toughest materials. Unique 2-step speed switch give the ability to select from 4 different speed settings. Designed to feel like a 12 volt while experiencing the power of an 18 volt. Batteries have a recharge life of 1,300 to 1,500 times. Circuit technology prevents battery from losing full power when in use, and from overheating when charging. 560 in-lbs of torque allows the Hitachi driver drill to power through the toughest jobs. View larger. Lithium-ion batteries represent the very latest in cordless tool technology and offer three times the life at half the weight of standard nicad or nickel-metal hydride batteries. And the tool’s quick charger recharges lithium-ion batteries in just 45 minutes. The DS18DL has a 1/2-inch keyless chuck that’s equipped with 22 slip-clutch settings, which allows for precise control when driving screws. Match the clutch setting to the screw size and hardness of the wood, and you won’t have to worry about driving the screw too deep or stripping the screw head. For even greater control, the tool has a unique two-step speed switch that offers four different speed settings ranging from zero to: 200, 400, 900 or 1,800 rpm. Other features include a soft-grip handle, externally accessible carbon brushes, and a convenient belt hook that houses an integral LED work light. The DS18DL comes with two 18-volt lithium-ion batteries, a quick charger, auxiliary side handle, two screwdriver tips, and carrying case. It’s covered by Hitachi’s

Reviews

Review #1

I purchased this drill and its smaller cousin a while ago. Both sit within easy reach of my woodworking bench. I use the DS18DL for boring holes in hardwood with large forstner bits, as well as general drilling and screw driving tasks in hardwood.

This beast is very fast and very powerful. It is rated at 570 in lbs, and you will need the auxilliary handle when you push the tool that hard! That is enough torque to drive lag screws or bore 3″ holes without missing a beat. This is simply the most powerful cordless drill I have ever used. It is very light and easy to handle for a drill of its capability. The batteries have excellent life, and weigh far less than comparable ni-cads.

You will love this tool.

Update at 6 weeks: I just finished using this drill to drive a few hundred 3″ wood screws on an outdoor project. I am astonished at the level of performance. I changed the battery only twice during the project. It was just as if I was using a corded drill in terms of power and speed.

I really need to go on a bit about the chuck too. This drill has a genuine Jacobs chuck. Combined with the automatic spindle lock, this high quality chuck is a breeze to tighten and loosen. It is big enough to wrap my entire hand around for serious tightening. This chuck just doesn’t slip when tghtened properly.

Again - you will love this tool.

 

Review #2

I have purchased several brands of battery powered drills for installing electrical lines in new construction, so I tend to use my cordless drills more than most. This Hitachi is hands down the best I’ve ever used. Not only the superior torque, but the battery life is incredible. My Pan/Dew/Craft and Mil drills were all ‘good’ but suffered from some sort of problem. This thing chews through wood like its made of butter - the Lith/Ion batteries are incredible. the light on the side really works well also. The looks are a little “toy” oriented - reminds me of my Kid’s Transformer toys, but the performance is unsurpassed.

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You know Uncle Will: the poster boy for Yankee Ingenuity. He’s the guy who can solve any household problem with little more than a hammer and screwdriver.

One day Will used a screwdriver instead of a pry bar to rip boards off an old deck. When the screwdriver snapped under the strain, he fell and broke his two front teeth. That’s genius?

There is a right way and a wrong way to use hand tools, but a lot of people don’t seem to know it. In fact, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, each year more than 100,000 injuries require hospital treatment due to misuse of hand tools.

First Steps To A Quality Job

* Buy the best tool you can afford. Cheap tools are more likely to break, and more difficult to use. Buy several versions or sizes of the same tool to assure you have the right tool for the right job.

* Use a hand tool for the job it was manufactured to perform.

* Inspect tools for cracks, chips, mushrooming, and wear. Discard damaged tools promptly.

* Be sure handles are fixed firmly into a tool’s working end.

* Plan your job before you start.

* Check for hidden hazards, e.g., electric wires in a wall.

* Shut the current off when working near electricity.

* Organize the tools in a toolbox.

* Position your body securely while working with the tool. Wear eye protection.

* Concentrate! No matter how trivial the task seems.

Striking And Struck Tools

* Wear safety goggles any time you’re using one of these tools.

* A hammer head should be at least 3/8″ larger in diameter than the striking surface of a chisel, punch, wedge or other struck tools.

* Strike a hammer with the face parallel to the surface being struck. Glancing, off-center blows can throw dangerous splinters into the air.

* Use the right hammer for the job.

* Do not use one hammer to strike another hammer or a hatchet.

* Never use a striking tool with a loose or damaged handle.

* Pull nails or pry wood away from your face.

* Sharpen struck tools before use. Aim the blow or cut away from your body.

Screwdrivers

* The blade tip should fit a slotted screw, without hanging over.

* For many jobs, you’ll need to drill a hole first.

* Do not strike a screwdriver handle with a hammer. It could splinter and shatter.

* Never use the handle as a striking tool.

* Do not use them as pry bars, scrapers, lid removers, punches or chisels.

* Don’t hold work in one hand while using a screwdriver in the other. If the blade slips, you could get hurt.

* Screws are designed to be driven with the proper type of screwdriver. If you fail to take the time to match the screw with the screwdriver, the tool’s blade can slip out of the screw’s slot, resulting in an injury.

* Use insulated screwdrivers when working around electricity, but also turn off the power.

Wrenches

* For better control, pull the wrench toward you; don’t push it away from you. On high-torque jobs, stand firmly.

* Replace wrenches when the teeth become marred or worn.

* Do not substitute pliers for work a wrench should do.

* Never hammer with a wrench.

* Never put your face or head level with a wrench handle.

* Never use a handle extender while turning a wrench. Switch to a wrench with a longer handle or one designed to withstand more force. Homemade handle extenders can slip off and break.

* Use a box or socket wrench to free a tight or frozen nut.

* Make sure the wrench fits a nut or bolt exactly. Limit your use of adjustable wrenches.

Cordless Tools

* Read and thoroughly understand the instruction manual.

* Do not operate cordless tools in or near flammable liquids, or in explosive atmospheres.

* Keep the tool and the recharging unit in an area not accessible to children.

* Remove batteries or lock the switch in its “OFF” position before changing accessories, adjusting or cleaning the tool.

* When cutting, drilling or driving into walls, floors, or wherever live electrical wires may be encountered, hold the tool only by the insulated gripping surfaces.

* Do not touch the drill bit, blade or cutter immediately after operation. It may be extremely hot.

John Myre is the author of the award-winning book, Live Safely in a Dangerous World, and the publisher of the Safety Times Reproducible Articles..

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